Famous Hải Phòng Pâté Caught in the Crossfire of Vietnam’s “Dirty Meat” Scandal

One of northern Vietnam’s best known street foods has been unintentionally dragged into a national food safety scandal, leaving local vendors worried about falling customer numbers and damaged reputation.

In recent days, authorities ordered the destruction of thousands of cans labeled “pâté Cột Đèn Hải Phòng” produced by Ha Long Canfoco, after investigators linked the products to pork infected with African swine fever. The announcement sparked widespread alarm, but also confusion.

The problem is the name.

Same name, very different products

“Pâté Cột Đèn” has long been a must try item on any food tour of Hai Phong. For decades, the name has referred to a traditional fresh pâté made and sold daily by small family businesses around Chua Hang Street, formerly home to the old Cột Đèn Market.

The canned product now under investigation is industrially produced and sold nationwide. Local vendors say it has no connection to their handmade pâté beyond sharing the same name.

That distinction, however, has been lost on many consumers scrolling through social media headlines.

Vendors fear lasting damage

Shop owners around Chua Hang Street say customers have begun asking whether their pâté is safe, or worse, avoiding the area altogether.

“We make pâté twice a day and sell everything the same day. Nothing is stored overnight,” said Hậu, whose family has sold pâté here for generations. On regular days, his shop uses about 50 kilograms of meat. During holidays, that amount can double.

Another vendor, Linh, explained that traditional Cột Đèn pâté is slow cooked for six to seven hours, using fresh pork, liver, and carefully selected fat. The pâté is not canned, not preserved, and typically keeps for up to seven days when refrigerated.

“These are fresh foods, cooked and sold locally. We are not related to factory canned products,” she said.

A protected culinary identity

Hải Phòng’s tourism authorities previously included pâté Cột Đèn on the city’s official food map, promoting it as part of the local culinary identity. For residents, the dish represents craft, routine, and trust built over decades.

Vendors now worry that the food safety scandal could undo that trust overnight.

“We hope consumers judge fairly,” said one long time shop owner. “Traditional food culture is built with care and responsibility over many years. It should not be harmed by something we had no part in.”

Why this matters beyond Vietnam

For international readers, the story highlights a recurring challenge in emerging food markets. When industrial brands adopt names associated with regional specialties, scandals can ripple far beyond their source, hurting small businesses and cultural heritage.

As Vietnam tightens food safety enforcement, the case also underscores the importance of traceability and clear labeling, especially when local culinary icons become commercial brands.

For Hải Phòng’s pâté makers, the message is simple. The scandal is real, but the pâté at Chua Hang Street is not the culprit.