During the lunchtime rush, patrons arriving at the Dong Thinh eel noodle eatery on Cong Quynh Street in Cau Ong Lanh Ward often wait as tables fill up quickly. Despite operating for just over a month, the venue has already gathered a loyal following.
Standing behind the service counter, Phuong quickly arranges glass noodles, eel, and fresh herbs into bowls before passing them to her husband, who ladles hot broth over each portion. Staff then carry steaming bowls through the service window straight to awaiting tables.
These steaming bowls carry the exact flavors honored by the Michelin Guide for three consecutive years in Hanoi. The new custodian is the founder’s daughter, who returned home after spending ten years running a nail salon in the US.
Revisiting Childhood Memories After a Decade Abroad
Phuong’s mother, 68-year-old Quach Kim Dung, established the Dong Thinh brand with her family in Hanoi in 1984. Phuong grew up surrounded by the aroma of glass noodles, crisp fried eel, and savory eel patties.
Phuong handles the food preparation counter for incoming diners. (Photo: Supplied)
After marrying and having two children, Phuong moved to the United States to build a new life. She opened a nail salon and ran the business alongside her husband.
She managed staff and handled nail treatments directly, while her husband maintained the facilities and managed logistics. The salon stabilized, developed a regular client base, and supported a comfortable living. The couple later welcomed two more children.
Yet during her years in the US, Phuong often thought about her parents’ dream of expanding the family brand. Homesickness and ties to relatives repeatedly stirred her desire to return.
Marking ten years in America, Phuong discussed the move with her husband. With his full backing, the family returned to Vietnam in 2025.
“I faced an internal struggle because I was accustomed to American life and had my own career,” Phuong said. “Yet I knew this was the only way to safeguard what my family spent decades building.”
Upon returning, the family settled in Hanoi before scouting locations in Ho Chi Minh City.
Securing a premises took six months because Phuong was unfamiliar with local dining habits and urban pace. “After observing the local market, I found diners in Ho Chi Minh City very welcoming. If you prepare food meticulously and serve with care, customers embrace you.”
Ingredients and dishes are prepared meticulously with vibrant colors. (Photo: Supplied)
The eatery launched operations in early August 2026. Seeing full tables of diners eating and chatting brings back vivid childhood memories for Phuong.
“As a young girl, I stood watching everyone prepare eel noodles and helped with small chores,” she recalled. “Now, it feels as if I have stepped right back into my familiar childhood trade.”
Drawing on years of business experience, Phuong’s main priority when expanding south was preserving the original family recipe. She ships broth ingredients, noodles, eel, and seasonings directly from Hanoi without altering the formula.
“Our broth stays light and clear without excessive sweetness, and the eel remains crispy even when sitting in the bowl for a while,” she explained. “Those details define our culinary identity.”
Phuong was pleasantly surprised by how quickly southern diners embraced the taste. Returning Hanoi customers praised the familiar authenticity, while local diners favored the fresh, crunchy texture of the eel.
Beyond food quality, she anchors the business on customer service. Treating staff as partners, she fosters an open working environment.
“I returned to honor my family’s wishes and feel deeply grateful to carry forward my parents’ legacy,” she said. “With the backing of my husband, children, and customers, I am confident in this journey.”
Living Among Family Brings the Deepest Joy
In 2023, Dong Thinh Eel Noodles in Hanoi earned its inaugural Michelin Guide recognition. It has retained its Bib Gourmand status for three straight years, celebrating establishments offering high-quality food at reasonable prices. It remains Vietnam’s first eel noodle venue featured on the list.
Long supports and accompanies his wife on their restaurant journey. (Photo: Supplied)
In Ho Chi Minh City, the eatery serves an array of specialty dishes including eel patties, mixed dry eel noodles, noodle soup, stir-fried eel noodles, eel porridge, and soup, with prices starting from 35,000 VND ($1.40). The mixed noodles, noodle soup, and eel patties rank among the top picks. The restaurant operates daily from 6:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.
Pham Hoang Long, Phuong’s 41-year-old husband, arrives at the restaurant by 5:00 a.m. each day for kitchen prep. Phuong oversees the dining area, while Long manages the kitchen.
By late afternoon, Long simmers broth for the next day. He finishes cleaning and inspecting the kitchen late in the evening before the couple heads home.
Despite demanding hours, Long relishes carrying on the family craft. In the US, life was comfortable but insular, centered strictly around work and home.
“Here, we live close to our parents, relatives, and children,” Long reflected. “The kitchen work is grueling, but having family around, eating food we love, and sharing life together brings far more happiness.”
The restaurant features an airy interior and a covered prep counter. (Photo: Supplied)
Long describes his wife as disciplined, dependable, and deeply committed to the family heritage.
Should the first venue maintain steady trade, the couple plans to open additional outlets across Ho Chi Minh City. While outside parties previously offered to buy franchise rights, the family declined.
“This is our family craft, and we want relatives to run it,” Long stressed. “Expanding too quickly or outsourcing ownership risks diluting our original flavor and standards.”
Phuong echoed her husband’s views on brand integrity. Her children often stop by after school to help out. She hopes their direct involvement will foster a natural passion for the craft.
“If our children decide to take over the business in the future, I will be delighted, though the choice remains entirely theirs,” Phuong said. “For now, I simply focus on doing my best so I do not let down my parents, my family, or our customers.”
(Source: Tri Thuc Magazine – News.vn)
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